The plan, I guess, was not to have a plan ;o) and just take things as they came; eat, drink and generally be merry, seeing Iceland in a different light (about 5 hours a day :o)) Good weather and the Aurora would be a bonus. As it happened, after a fantastically clear day driving round Þingvallavatn (and just missing the sunset), we had just returned from a meal at Þrir Frakkar when, looking up at the cloudless star-filled sky, Jo asked "Hey Kev, what do you think about that green light, then?"

Talking of Þrir Frakkar, I had asked Jo and his girlfriend to book a restaurant in town and had said that I would particularly like to visit Þrir Frakkar as it had such a good reputation as a fish restaurant (English fish?? ;o) Apparently, when he phoned, they had no tables free until he said "Aw, damn. This guy is coming over from England and he really wants to visit Þrir Frakkar - that's the only reason he's coming!" All I can say is that the meal(s) was/were gorgeous and I will definitely have to go back for the Hval piparsteik, though I can personally recommend the Redfish. After so much BS on Jo's part to get me in there, I couldn't just leave and was led straight to the kitchen to meet the owner/head chef. It's fair to say that Icelandic restaurant prices are higher than most places, but the quality of the food really is unbelievable and I haven't left an Icelandic restaurant hungry yet. When you consider we had three meals, half a bottle of wine and four bottles of beer for about £100, I'd say that was good value - especially when you consider the price of shopping in supermarkets (eg, £1.50 for a loaf of bread)

Just to prove that getting me a table in a full restaurant wasn't a fluke, Jo also managed to arrange a self-guided tour of a fishing boat. It's a bit off, one might say, to ask an Englishman if he wants to board an Icelandic fishing vessel ;o)

The photos from this trip were mostly taken with my (t)rusty old SLR, but a few were taken on a Canon compact, which does a good job in most conditions. Click on an image for full-sized versions - but be warned, they tend to be around 100Kb each. My other articles and photos are also available.

The Aurora over Reykjavik

The weather in Iceland during the latter part of December is generally stormy, with really awful weather but, this being my 5th visit, the one thing I had learnt was that you can't trust the weather. I had spent two weeks on Iceland in July and the only two dry days were in Skaftafell, traditionally the wettest part of Iceland! I was due some good weather, I decided, and went with hope in my heart that I might - just might - get to see the Northern Lights.

It appears that luck was on my side because they appeared on two consecutive nights during the early evening and then didn't return. I was especially lucky to see them so clearly, due to the lights of Reykjavik; it would have been even better if I had been a few miles outside of town, for sure, but I'm not complaining. These photos were all taken on 400ASA Kodak negative film at f4 with shutter speeds of between 8 seconds and 3 minutes. I had to darken the longest exposures using Paint Shop Pro and I feel the results are a little rainy; next time I would probably use 200ASA at f4/4-5 minutes. Needless to say, a sturdy tripod is essential. The photos below show the way in which the phenomena moves around the sky, changing shape and pattern. These photos were taken from across the bay and the bright lights reflecting in the water are those of Perlan.

The Alternative Golden Circle - Day 1: Around Þingvallavatn

Taking advantage of the excellent weather and the lack of tour busses, on one of the days we set off in Jo's jeep around Þingvallavatn, hoping that there might be a really good sunset. Unfortunately, this wasn't to be as there were no clouds when the sun actually went down. Nevertheless, these piccies - and the one at the top - show the lake in a totally different light. The steam rising from the frost covered ground, with a light dusting of snow, made for truly spectacular viewing.

The Alternative Golden Circle - Day 2: Þingvellir, Gullfoss & Geysir

New Year's Eve itself saw us completing the 'Golden Circle' by taking an early morning visit to Þingvellir, Gullfoss & Geysir. I guess we couldn't expect to have these places to ourselves, as they are close enough to the City to attract the day trippers on stopovers to the States, but we certainly did see the place in much quieter circumstances than in Summer. The thing is - especially at Geysir - everyone stays by the side of the road with the crowds. A short walk up the hill behind Geysir provided opportunity for these shots of Strokkur in mid eruption.

All that's left to say is that I really enjoyed this unusual view of a country that continues to impress, especially the weather. This trip was unusual in many ways; I did very little walking - but managed to see areas that I have normally bypassed. The days are short - but the weather was clearer than most summers. The friendliness of the Icelanders towards visitors, however, is one point that never seems to change and it only leaves me to thank my good friend Josef and his family for sharing their New Year celebrations with me.

Just don't mention the (Cod) War ;o))

Other Iceland Articles & Photos

My Favourite Fish Restaurant ;o)

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